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Minn Kota Bow Mount Installation

Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 12:03 pm
by Grey_Thunder
Just bought a MK Maxxum 70 lbs thrust and am about to install it on my 18' Fisher aluminum bass boat. The bow is not completely level (curved) and in order to provide a "flush" mount for the "Bowguard Breakaway Bow-Mount", I need to place some spacers or shims (or the like) to ensure a proper attachment. The Bowguard is a level bracket that now mates to a non level surface.

I had to do this with my old Motorguide and placed plastic spacers (which I had to manually cut out from some composite planking) at each of the 4 screw locations (the Minn Kota uses 6 screws). For reference, the spacer closes to the tip of the bow was close to 1 inch thick and the spacer at the back was only about 1/8 inch thick.

Does anyone have any suggestions or advice? It would appreciated!

Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 2:17 pm
by Terry_F
Paul Shabata gave a presentation on boat rigging, thanks to JP Ostiguy, earlier this year.
Paul made reference to dollar store cutting boards as great aids to helping out in special fit situations.
I have used them myself a few times this year, easy to cut and shape, you should be able to create shims using them.
Good Luck.

Minn Kota Bow Mount Installation

Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 2:36 pm
by gkehoe
In mounting a Terrova on the bow of my Princecraft using their quick release bracket and adaptor plate, I encountered the very same problem.

I solved it by purchasing a piece of composite plastic 1/2" thick with the same dimensions as the adaptor plate at Plastics of Ottawa (or Canus) and I had it milled into a wedge shape that was basically 1/32" on one edge and 1/2" on the edge over the gunwale. A bit on the expensive side but it provides me with confidence in its structure.

If I was to do it again, I would start with something in the 5/8" or 3/4" thickness and have them taper it to 1/8". Just to ensure the motor ends up completely level. Re using cutting board plastic, I was told by someone I have trust in and works in the field that the plastic is different and would not take the stress.

Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:12 pm
by Grey_Thunder
Thanks for the two replies.

On my old Motorguide, I had used composite board and cut it myself (rather than having it milled) with a jig saw, hack saw and some sand paper. Most recently, I actually had had some trouble finding smooth composite decking in the regular hardware stores (Home Depot and Rona) and had to trek over to Gatineau to buy the same board I original had bought from Reno Depot: a grey coloured composite plank (1" thick and 6"x4').

I wish I had known about that plastics store as I'm sure it had more selection.