Fish-Hawk.Net

Hi Guys

This is my first boat and I am attempting to winterize the motor already.

Wish I could keep it running for the winter landlocked salmon (ouananiche) fishing here but I have to have it winterized by dec 1st for insurance purposes. That will change next year.

I have a Yamaha 4 stroke and in my manual it says to spray the fogging spray into the silencer cover. Does anybody know where the silencer cover is or what it looks like? I am going to spray some into each cylinder like the manual says also.

Thanks

DH

Check out this link for Yamaha....

My 2cycle Johnson has a bike tire valve I screw the fogging can to and push button until, stalls...

Yamaha or 4 strokes look different.

http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/cgi- ... 1;t=001390

I do the same with my 4 stroke Honda Steve, until it chokes a bit and it may stall too!

Thanks Steve

I will look at the motor tonight and try to fine the intake silencer.

DH

That's the problem with many of us who don't have lots of experience with small engines... we don't really know what some of the parts look like even though we know their names. Personally i have no problems changing plugs, gear oil, engine oil, and simple stuff like that.

As for fogging i'm at a bit of a loss i run a 4-stroke merc and all i have been doing is removing each spark plug and spraying into each cylinder. Once this is done i crank the engine a few times to disburse the oil. For the life of me i've looked and looked and then looked some more and can't figure out what else should be done.

This year it's too late as my boat is probably in sudbury right now at the doctors but i preped it in the usual way before it's road trip so that it'd be ready for winter.

John:
I had same problem. I have a 2003 90hp Merc 4 stroke. There is nothing in manual in the chapter about winterizing and storage that mentions fogging engine. There is a cover that must be removed first, that allows you to spray fogging into carbs. Spray in each carb until engine almost stalls.
xcal

xcal wrote:John:
I had same problem. I have a 2003 90hp Merc 4 stroke. There is nothing in manual in the chapter about winterizing and storage that mentions fogging engine. There is a cover that must be removed first, that allows you to spray fogging into carbs. Spray in each carb until engine almost stalls.
xcal

I have the 2005 4s 115HP Mercury... as per the back of the manual... I removed the plugs and shot motor oil into the cylinders... thats it .. turned it over (lanyard off of course) a couple of times.. drained lower unit.. changed oil and filter.. done!... saved over $100.00... just keep reciepts and records..

Lets look at what is the reason for "winterizing" a motor, and maybe this will simplify the process. Winterizing is the same process one would follow even if you didn't live in this great climate. The only exception to the whole process is the foot oil change. Water in the foot will freeze, therefore it's hereditary to our climate, and basically anywhere north of the 48th parallel. If you lived in Arizona, you'd still have to go through the process if you were storing your boat for an extended period of time for the same reasons noted below..

Main reasons for "winterizing" you motor:

A: Gumming of gas in the fuel system ie: injectors / carburator etc...
B: Avoid foot housing cracks due to water freezing.
C: Cylinder scarring due to pistons remaining stagnant for a long period of time without sufficient lubrification.

How to avoid all of the above in sequence:

A: Run the motor with a fuel treatment to stabilze the fuel (injector system)
A.1: Fog via the carburator(s) to insure no gumming of fuel in the carburator jets and carb body.

B: Change foot oil. This serves 3 purposes. It will indicate if you have a seal leak, it will replace the old oil which contains water and can damage the foot housing if it freezes, with new "water free" oil. until you can address the seal leak. And it will flag any excessive gear wear (unusual amount of steel shavings on the magnetic pin)

C: Some consider fogging sufficient when it comes to coating the pistons and cylinder walls to avoid scarring. And if the storage period is not an extended one, I'd probably concur...being a bit paranoid in that regard...removing the plugs and squirting some 2 stroke oil in the cylinders and turning over the engine allows me sleep better at nite so to speak(ref: Jimmysdream). All of the above, with the exception of changing the foot oil, is required when storing an engine for an extended period of time irregardless of your climatic conditions. This is the basic reasoning your dealer uses when processing your motors winterization. Hope this clarifies things for those wondering about the "whys" and how's".

Mikey