I'm considering trying Fly fishing this year.
What do you recommend for a starter fly combo in the $300.00 range?
Not species specific but just a generally good all around combo.
Thanks
Suggestions
I know you said you weren't species specific, but identifying your species preference helps in knowing what to buy.
A 3-weight to 5 weight rod/line will do well for local trout and panfish.
A 5-weight to 7 weight will do well for local bass and carp.
For larger species like pike or musky, steelhead and salmon, anything in an 8 weight and above will do the trick.
Most manufacturers offer starter kits in 5 weight up to 9 weight for around $100 to $300. Temple Fork Outfitters, Orvis, Pflugger, and Okuma are just some of the brands in this category. I recommend you deal with a shop dedicated to fly fishing since they have the knowledge and experience to sell you something that suits your needs.
If you are a complete novice to fly fishing, may I suggest that you spend money on a fly fishing course prior to buying equipment? These courses have useful information about equiment, lines, knots, fish food, etc. The local fly shops offer these courses for about $100 for a full day. I took Green Drake's course about 13 years ago and it set me on the right path.
Also, join the Ottawa Flyfishers Society. The people are great - very welcoming of newcomers and very helpful with information. They also have fly tying night every month which is another aspect of fly fishing that is really fun. Todd B is the VP of ghe OFS and he runs a summer fly fishing program on Tuesday nights. It's great fun and it will definitely help you to enjoy fly fishing.
Fly fishing is very addictive...once you've gone over to the "Dark Side" you might just be there forever........
A 3-weight to 5 weight rod/line will do well for local trout and panfish.
A 5-weight to 7 weight will do well for local bass and carp.
For larger species like pike or musky, steelhead and salmon, anything in an 8 weight and above will do the trick.
Most manufacturers offer starter kits in 5 weight up to 9 weight for around $100 to $300. Temple Fork Outfitters, Orvis, Pflugger, and Okuma are just some of the brands in this category. I recommend you deal with a shop dedicated to fly fishing since they have the knowledge and experience to sell you something that suits your needs.
If you are a complete novice to fly fishing, may I suggest that you spend money on a fly fishing course prior to buying equipment? These courses have useful information about equiment, lines, knots, fish food, etc. The local fly shops offer these courses for about $100 for a full day. I took Green Drake's course about 13 years ago and it set me on the right path.
Also, join the Ottawa Flyfishers Society. The people are great - very welcoming of newcomers and very helpful with information. They also have fly tying night every month which is another aspect of fly fishing that is really fun. Todd B is the VP of ghe OFS and he runs a summer fly fishing program on Tuesday nights. It's great fun and it will definitely help you to enjoy fly fishing.
Fly fishing is very addictive...once you've gone over to the "Dark Side" you might just be there forever........
Time's fun when you're having flies.
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beachburger
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- Location: Beachburg
My first rod was 8wt Orvis Clearwater setup from Green Drake. I use it for pike and LMB and just recently steelhead. In the case of pike and LMB, the 8wt is more to be able to chuck big flies than it is to battle the fish. I have also used it to fish trout, smallies and pannies.
I use a 5wt St Croix Legend Elite and an Orvis Battenkill Bar Stock reel for trout, smallies and pannies.
I plan on getting a 4wt setup this spring for trout and pannies. I will carry both rods on float tube trips for trout.
I would advise that whatever rod you choose, make sure it has a "no questions warranty". I have broken the 8wt twice, my fault both times.
HTH,
Doug
I use a 5wt St Croix Legend Elite and an Orvis Battenkill Bar Stock reel for trout, smallies and pannies.
I plan on getting a 4wt setup this spring for trout and pannies. I will carry both rods on float tube trips for trout.
I would advise that whatever rod you choose, make sure it has a "no questions warranty". I have broken the 8wt twice, my fault both times.
HTH,
Doug
Thanks guyus
I guess I'll be looking at a 5-7 weight as I'll not be fishing muskie with it.
Thanks for the advice on Green Drakes courses, I'll give it some thought.
Any advice on brands available in the price range I specified?? I here line is expensive...Is it something you have to replace on a yearly basis?
I know you have floating and sinking line so more than one type has to be purchased so 2 spools will be needed...or can you change spools??
Thanks
I guess I'll be looking at a 5-7 weight as I'll not be fishing muskie with it.
Thanks for the advice on Green Drakes courses, I'll give it some thought.
Any advice on brands available in the price range I specified?? I here line is expensive...Is it something you have to replace on a yearly basis?
I know you have floating and sinking line so more than one type has to be purchased so 2 spools will be needed...or can you change spools??
Thanks
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beachburger
- Gold Participant
- Posts: 1068
- Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2006 8:48 pm
- Location: Beachburg
A TFO rod and Okuma reel will get your price range. Greg at FP&F might be able to help here. An Orvis Clearwater rod and reel from Green Drake will fit the bill as well.
Fly line is expensive compared to spin line but it should last many years. Spend the money on a good line and cheap out on the reel as the reel is only a line holder when it comes to trout, bass and pike. I like the SA Mastery Series lines.
To start you can easily get by with a floating line and use weighted flies and/or sink tips to go deeper. You can get a spare spool (or 2 or 3) later on.
And then there are the waders and wading boots and float tube and pontoon boat and (.....)
HTH,
Doug
Fly line is expensive compared to spin line but it should last many years. Spend the money on a good line and cheap out on the reel as the reel is only a line holder when it comes to trout, bass and pike. I like the SA Mastery Series lines.
To start you can easily get by with a floating line and use weighted flies and/or sink tips to go deeper. You can get a spare spool (or 2 or 3) later on.
And then there are the waders and wading boots and float tube and pontoon boat and (.....)
HTH,
Doug
Matt,
Good line is something that you'll pay a premium for unless you're lucky enough to find it on sale. If you take care of your line it will last you for many years. The first line you'll need is a full floating line. Unless you're going to take up stillwater fly fishing, you can get by with only the floating line. If needed you can pick up sink tip extensions for less than $20.
If you're looking for a full combo, the Okuma Infusion Combo is nice (though there is no warranty on the rod). I'm not sure on the quality of flyline you get with it either. For more details you can give Sport Action a call.
In terms of individual components:
Rods:
I'd strongly recommend a 4 piece rod. As a new caster you should also be looking for a "mid-flex" or medium action rod. Note that the flyshops will let you and typically encourage you to cast with a rod before purchasing it. Rods are like golf clubs in that some just feel and cast right, while others don't.
Suggested rods include:
TFO Series 1 - 4 piece
Orvis Clearwater 2 - 4 piece, mid flex
Line:
Scientific Angler, RIO, Orvis, Cortland are all good line manufactures. All of them offer a "Beginner" that is far better than any of the generic sporting good store brands, but will not be nearly as expensive as the "Advanced" lines.
Reels:
The drag systems on even the entry level reels are far better nowadays than what they were in the past. Until you get into +4lb fish you'll find that your reel is basically a line holder, so there's no reason to spend lots of money on it. There are some nice reels available in the $100 range, whose spare spools are relatively inexpensive as well, if you're looking to add additional fly lines to your inventory at some time.
Cheers,
Todd
Good line is something that you'll pay a premium for unless you're lucky enough to find it on sale. If you take care of your line it will last you for many years. The first line you'll need is a full floating line. Unless you're going to take up stillwater fly fishing, you can get by with only the floating line. If needed you can pick up sink tip extensions for less than $20.
If you're looking for a full combo, the Okuma Infusion Combo is nice (though there is no warranty on the rod). I'm not sure on the quality of flyline you get with it either. For more details you can give Sport Action a call.
In terms of individual components:
Rods:
I'd strongly recommend a 4 piece rod. As a new caster you should also be looking for a "mid-flex" or medium action rod. Note that the flyshops will let you and typically encourage you to cast with a rod before purchasing it. Rods are like golf clubs in that some just feel and cast right, while others don't.
Suggested rods include:
TFO Series 1 - 4 piece
Orvis Clearwater 2 - 4 piece, mid flex
Line:
Scientific Angler, RIO, Orvis, Cortland are all good line manufactures. All of them offer a "Beginner" that is far better than any of the generic sporting good store brands, but will not be nearly as expensive as the "Advanced" lines.
Reels:
The drag systems on even the entry level reels are far better nowadays than what they were in the past. Until you get into +4lb fish you'll find that your reel is basically a line holder, so there's no reason to spend lots of money on it. There are some nice reels available in the $100 range, whose spare spools are relatively inexpensive as well, if you're looking to add additional fly lines to your inventory at some time.
Cheers,
Todd
"There wouldn't have been any butt kickings if that stupid death ray had worked."
Thanks...you mean a speedo won't do??beachburger wrote:A TFO rod and Okuma reel will get your price range. Greg at FP&F might be able to help here. An Orvis Clearwater rod and reel from Green Drake will fit the bill as well.
Fly line is expensive compared to spin line but it should last many years. Spend the money on a good line and cheap out on the reel as the reel is only a line holder when it comes to trout, bass and pike. I like the SA Mastery Series lines.
To start you can easily get by with a floating line and use weighted flies and/or sink tips to go deeper. You can get a spare spool (or 2 or 3) later on.
And then there are the waders and wading boots and float tube and pontoon boat and (.....)
HTH,
Doug
Seriously thought, I would probably start out of my boat, not sure shore fishing is for me.
Is it better to get a combo or can I pick up reel and rod separate....does Le Baron have decent stuff at a decent cost?
Lots of questions .....sorry!
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beachburger
- Gold Participant
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- Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2006 8:48 pm
- Location: Beachburg
I use the fly rod in the boat a lot. The fly line has a knack on getting caught up on everything in the boat. When I get annoyed with it, I wear a stripping basket made from a Rubbermaid tote or strip the line into a white bucket.I would probably start out of my boat
You can do either. Doesn't really matter.Is it better to get a combo or can I pick up reel and rod separate
Meh. They have a few things. Local fly shops will have much more to offer, are competive in price and when you walk out you will leave with a properly spooled reel and be ready to fish. The fly line is only about 100 ft. The rest of the spool is filled with a braided backing.does Le Baron have decent stuff at a decent cost?
We have lots of answers.....even if we have to make them up.Lots of questions .....sorry!
Regarding lines, I would avoid Orvis Wonderline. I have it on my 4-wt and it has better memory than I ever had. I had it on my 6-wt and the slick coating wears off too quickly. I second Beachburger about Scientific Anglers. It is a much better product for the money.
BTW - Fly rods are usually around 9 feet long, so Todd's advice about a 4-piece rod makes sense when it comes to storage and transportation. All of my rods are 4-piece.
Muskymatt, with a fly rod from your boat, check out some of you favorite bass water. A 6-wt should do the trick for most bass applications. You can get flies for topwater and some have weedguards. Presentation is not too much different from regular fishing. Bass on the fly is amazing - way more fun than on baitcaster or spin tackle.
Check out carp on the fly, too. I've been targeting carp on surface flies with my 9-wt here in Japan. They are more difficult to catch with fly tackle, but what a blast when you hook one!!!!
BTW - Fly rods are usually around 9 feet long, so Todd's advice about a 4-piece rod makes sense when it comes to storage and transportation. All of my rods are 4-piece.
Muskymatt, with a fly rod from your boat, check out some of you favorite bass water. A 6-wt should do the trick for most bass applications. You can get flies for topwater and some have weedguards. Presentation is not too much different from regular fishing. Bass on the fly is amazing - way more fun than on baitcaster or spin tackle.
Check out carp on the fly, too. I've been targeting carp on surface flies with my 9-wt here in Japan. They are more difficult to catch with fly tackle, but what a blast when you hook one!!!!
Time's fun when you're having flies.
some good advice so far. i'd like to add the following:
-go with a 4 piece. the convenience of being able to take it with you anywhere (including your carry-on luggage) is a huge benefit over the incremental cost;
-i disagree with the comment that the reel is a line holder (no offense). for even medium sized fish, the drag on your reel is what is fighting the fish. i've been taught to get big fish on the reel as soon as possible as drag can fight fish more effectively than your feathering with your finger. that's just my personal preference. personally i'd start with a reel in the $100-150 range with a decent drag like an redington CD, an okuma or orvis battenkill. i also own a pflueger trion (8wt) and i'm not a big fan of that one.
-if you planning on fishing in cover (pads/stumps) for 3lb+ bass, then i'd suggest getting at least a 6 weight. you'll need a stouter line to huck out larger flies and you'll need to pull the fish away from the cover once their on. don't bother with 4x tippets or whatever. you'll need 10lb plus line to fish heavy cover IMO. if you're fishing open cover, you can just set your drag a bit lighter and just let the fish swim around in circles until you're able to land it.
i started with a 6wt TFO Ti rod and a redington cd reel as my first real rod and i still like it a lot. previously i've gone through 2-3 of the canadian tire $50 jobs which had the worst reels. i have a couple rods and reels that you can cast if you were interested. i just need to get one of them lined first. i'm in the glebe if you're interested sometime after march 20th.
-go with a 4 piece. the convenience of being able to take it with you anywhere (including your carry-on luggage) is a huge benefit over the incremental cost;
-i disagree with the comment that the reel is a line holder (no offense). for even medium sized fish, the drag on your reel is what is fighting the fish. i've been taught to get big fish on the reel as soon as possible as drag can fight fish more effectively than your feathering with your finger. that's just my personal preference. personally i'd start with a reel in the $100-150 range with a decent drag like an redington CD, an okuma or orvis battenkill. i also own a pflueger trion (8wt) and i'm not a big fan of that one.
-if you planning on fishing in cover (pads/stumps) for 3lb+ bass, then i'd suggest getting at least a 6 weight. you'll need a stouter line to huck out larger flies and you'll need to pull the fish away from the cover once their on. don't bother with 4x tippets or whatever. you'll need 10lb plus line to fish heavy cover IMO. if you're fishing open cover, you can just set your drag a bit lighter and just let the fish swim around in circles until you're able to land it.
i started with a 6wt TFO Ti rod and a redington cd reel as my first real rod and i still like it a lot. previously i've gone through 2-3 of the canadian tire $50 jobs which had the worst reels. i have a couple rods and reels that you can cast if you were interested. i just need to get one of them lined first. i'm in the glebe if you're interested sometime after march 20th.
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Hookup
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- Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada (eh)
One point that seemed to be raised only once was the Mid-Flex rod suggestion. I will say that when I started last year, I got a tip-flex rod... because I'm a youthful moron who wants to huck-flies as far as possible to cover more water, faster.... yeah.. well Tip-Flex is good for distance... but what a frigg'n learning curve on casting... I would never, ever do that again... mid-flex rods are so much easier (IMO) to cast... and you're likely going to cast FURTHER with it, cause your technique is better... after some time, then change to a tip-flex if distance floats your boat...
Also, your comment on "not being a shore-fisher"... I'm was so with you... I just went along with the crazy fly-fishing guys because why not.. but this shore-fishing thing was a joke to me.. who wants to stand in one spot waiting for a fish to swim by......
UNTIL.. I tried it... I still love to fish from a boat, always will... but wading in moving water, picking out seams, casting... it's like no other type of fishing... do your self the favor, when the water temps warm up, throw on some old shoes and go wet-wading to see if you like it. I'll always be wading... it's fantastic.... You'll be amazed at how many fish are actually in the water right in front of you... something you do not get a feeling for when you run-and-gun on a boat.
Also, your comment on "not being a shore-fisher"... I'm was so with you... I just went along with the crazy fly-fishing guys because why not.. but this shore-fishing thing was a joke to me.. who wants to stand in one spot waiting for a fish to swim by......
UNTIL.. I tried it... I still love to fish from a boat, always will... but wading in moving water, picking out seams, casting... it's like no other type of fishing... do your self the favor, when the water temps warm up, throw on some old shoes and go wet-wading to see if you like it. I'll always be wading... it's fantastic.... You'll be amazed at how many fish are actually in the water right in front of you... something you do not get a feeling for when you run-and-gun on a boat.
Good Advice here.
I would highly recommend you visit a local fly shop. We encourage our customers to test cast the rods before they buy. Many customers end up leaving with a different rod from what they asked for when they walked. Matching the rod to the individuals casting style will make a big difference.
One point on the pre-assembled rod kits some of them (ie TFO) are shipped from the factory with a right hand retrieve. Most fly fishers use a left hand retrieve.
Make sure the reel has spare spools available. You'll eventually want a full sink to go with your floating line. There is nothing worse IMHO than getting a set-up which can't be expanded.
I would highly recommend you visit a local fly shop. We encourage our customers to test cast the rods before they buy. Many customers end up leaving with a different rod from what they asked for when they walked. Matching the rod to the individuals casting style will make a big difference.
One point on the pre-assembled rod kits some of them (ie TFO) are shipped from the factory with a right hand retrieve. Most fly fishers use a left hand retrieve.
Make sure the reel has spare spools available. You'll eventually want a full sink to go with your floating line. There is nothing worse IMHO than getting a set-up which can't be expanded.