Downriggers

Post by **Jimmy_1** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:18 am

I have a question for lads that use downriggers.

We ordered some riggers with 24" arms.
I have a Tracker V-16 and I plan to mount them on the back of the boat.
Do we need longer arms? I read that while turning the cable can scrape the side of the boat.

Also, we'll need to buy the weights for them. As I'll be fishing around the area with it what weight is best? 4, 6, 8 or 10lbs???

I've read that weights with fins are best to use as the fins cause the steel line to run straight as opposed to the round balls that can cause twisting.

Any and all advice appreciated....

Post by **Fishanna2** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 11:29 am

I've two riggers mounted on the rear of my 16' KeyWest, one with a short
18" arm and one with a 24" arm. I like the shorter arm because when I
reel up the weight I'm able to grab the line without feeling like I'm heading
overboard - especially in choppy water. Guess it all depends how far back
on the gunnel you mount it. As for weights, it's your preference,
I like a heavy weight in deep (100') water, smaller for above that mark.
Whether it's fish shaped or not, they all HUMMMMMM. Good Luck.

Post by **hook&shoot** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 12:06 pm

James,
If you are getting finned ones try not to get the BC record rainbow sized ones. They may run a little deep!!!

H&S

Post by **Billy Bones** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 12:19 pm

Hey Jamsers

24 inch booms are fine, you won't have any trouble at all. I use 10 lb. finned weights exclusively, I fish them from 30 feet to as much as 160 feet (when nescessary). I will be running four downriggers this year and will have to keep shorter leads behind the ball. Would not use anything but finned weights. Talk to your buddy mmangler he's pretty good with them.

7 WEEKS TO LAKE ONTARIO BROWNS!!!

Hope this helps
Billy Bones

Post by **West Lake Willows** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 5:01 pm

As everyone else has said 24" will be fine. Personally I perfer to mount my riggers a little farther forward. I find it more manageable to grap the line as Fishanna2 mentioned. You also have to think about blow back and the angle of the rigger line. If you have the rigger right at the back you have to contend with the lines when you are fighting fish. If you put the riggers 3 or 4' from the stern the rigger lines are not in your way to bring a fish into the back of the boat.

I also recommend the shark weights. They run much straighter and have much less blow back in stronger currents. 10lb will be your best multi purpose weight in my opinion.

Scott

Post by RJ » Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:12 pm

I have 24 inch arms on mine mounted off the corners....zero issues...

I use 10 pound sharks...

RJ

Post by **Jimmy_1** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:17 pm

Thanks guys.

Now another $1M question.

Is 100ft sufficient or is it better to go with 200ft? For the steel line.

Post by RJ » Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:20 pm

Though not often I have fished deeper than 100...I hate it though.....it's a long way up cranking that ball...

Post by **SALMON** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:29 pm

For the sake of a few bucks..go with 200' of cable. There are many times salmon fishing where lines are down 115'-130'.. Guessing lakers could end up deep as well. If you have it you can use it..if you dont..

Post by **Jimmy_1** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:31 pm

Good point!

Post by **Buckshot** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 7:30 pm

I am going to guess who ever was having issues with the cable hitting the side of the boat they where turning to sharp with too light of a ball.

I run a 10 lb ball and i have no issues i run a tiller and have 18" booms and i run one rigger in the 1/3 of the way up the boat so the passenger has easy access and i have had no issues, with a 24" boom i would recomend a pull rope system to retrieve the ball or you will be reaching out a long way.

Good luck

Post by **jsdx** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 9:35 pm

Jamsers wrote: Is 100ft sufficient or is it better to go with 200ft? For the steel line.

go for 200 ft, no question...

I find in big rideau, mid summer - trolling the 100 - 110 ft contour is often the ticket. I will also sometimes go upwards of 120 ft but not often.

Post by **DropShotr** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 7:26 am

I have a pair of Mag 10A Cannons. They originally had the long extension arms. I had to make a hook just to reach my cannon balls.
I picked up a pair of short arms shortly after and have been very happy ever since. Go with 150 or 200 feet of wire. I have the round 10lb cannon balls and would like to upgrade to 13lb pancake weights from Cabelas. I know they would not track back as far as the round style. Anything other than a rock would track better than a round downrigger cannon ball.

Watch those fast rising wall like shoals

Good luck,

DropShot'r

PS make damn sure you have your 'riggers mounted to something SOLID

Post by **Dartee** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:14 am

I have 2 manual scotties, 1 old 18 inch and 1 newer 24 inch.

The 18 is easier to reach the ball but I prefer the 24.
I seem to be able to snug up the line on the rod easier and get a better bend with the 24inch the the 18. (using the same rod and release).

The 18 is mounted on the same side as the transducer and will some times interfere with the sonar when turning .

I tend to use an 8lb shark type weight

My father inlaw had a pair of electric walkers with 4 foot booms shorted to 3ft. But there is no issue reaching the balls since the riggers are on swivel mounts.

Post by **BC FD** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:32 am

I have a Mag 10a canon with a 48" arm and a scotty with an adjustable boom. I put a Canon retro ease I think it is called for pulling the weight in on the Canon and I find that works very well. The scotty is hinged but I find with a 10 Lb weight in rough water it can be a pain. i run 10 lb finned weights and fish Bomanville and find that we are rarely deeper than 100' Mitch