Laker Set-Up
Laker Set-Up
I am trying to get set up with a rod/reel to allow me to troll for lakers while using mono line. I have a trolling rod with leadcore but want to move away from the winch-style fishing it offers to the more traditional trolling method.
I have tried trolling with my normal pickeral rod; to many sinkers obviously and no way of knowing how deep I am. I have also tried a Dipsy Diver; the one that looks like the bottom half of a rocket using a smaller rod and found it pulled to much.
I do not have a downrigger at this time so I cannot go this route.
It is possible for me to have a setup that will allow me to troll and have some idea how deep i am?
Perhaps a 9 foot Steelhead rod with a 4000 series spinning reel? Will I need a dipsy diver? Know of any that do not pull to much or will this be lightened by the long rod. A line couter would be a must I would guess.
Cheers,
Scott
I have tried trolling with my normal pickeral rod; to many sinkers obviously and no way of knowing how deep I am. I have also tried a Dipsy Diver; the one that looks like the bottom half of a rocket using a smaller rod and found it pulled to much.
I do not have a downrigger at this time so I cannot go this route.
It is possible for me to have a setup that will allow me to troll and have some idea how deep i am?
Perhaps a 9 foot Steelhead rod with a 4000 series spinning reel? Will I need a dipsy diver? Know of any that do not pull to much or will this be lightened by the long rod. A line couter would be a must I would guess.
Cheers,
Scott
I don't have an answer to your question but will be interested to see if someone else has a method that works. Same as you, I have used the dipsy diver and lead core and am going to the downrigger approach this Spring. The only way I have ever been able to fish mono without a few pounds of sinkers is to jig or to drift fish with a sliding sinker. This is quite effective if it is not too windy and you have good identifiable areas of structure that hold lake trout.
Scott:
I'd recommend you purchase the latest edition of "Precision Trolling" now in its 7th edition - see http://www.precisionangling.com/
Even thouigh this "trolling bible" is directed towards trolling for walleyes, it contains some very worthwhile info. It provides dive curves for almost every available crankbait (i.e. number of feet back from boat to achieve desired depths). Line counter reels are a must. As well, the book also provides details on depths achieved with spinners or shallow cranks using the 50/50 method - where one lets out 50 feet of leader/line, attaches a snap weight (1/2 to 3 ounces), and then lets out another 50 feet of line. The 6th edition also discussed the "20 plus" method. A 1 ounce snap weight added 20 feet up the line from a crankbait will cause the crankbait to run 33% deeper than without the snap weight.
Alternatively, you could experiment with a line counter reel and your favourite laker lures at various known depths (sonar) and then record feet of line out to touch bottom. A little time consuming but good data for you.
I'd recommend you purchase the latest edition of "Precision Trolling" now in its 7th edition - see http://www.precisionangling.com/
Even thouigh this "trolling bible" is directed towards trolling for walleyes, it contains some very worthwhile info. It provides dive curves for almost every available crankbait (i.e. number of feet back from boat to achieve desired depths). Line counter reels are a must. As well, the book also provides details on depths achieved with spinners or shallow cranks using the 50/50 method - where one lets out 50 feet of leader/line, attaches a snap weight (1/2 to 3 ounces), and then lets out another 50 feet of line. The 6th edition also discussed the "20 plus" method. A 1 ounce snap weight added 20 feet up the line from a crankbait will cause the crankbait to run 33% deeper than without the snap weight.
Alternatively, you could experiment with a line counter reel and your favourite laker lures at various known depths (sonar) and then record feet of line out to touch bottom. A little time consuming but good data for you.
Ya Know you may find after trying all these other techniques and gadgets. That the old lead core is the way to go. I love my downriggers, nothing like seeing that rod spring up, but I got to tell ya a good Penn reel loaded w/ lead core few feet of mono good swivle and gang troll will always put trout in the boat. I have dipsy diver, jet divers special weights that will drop off or slide down the line when a fish strikes and they all worked so good that their sitting in the bottom of my junk box. However that being said light line /spinning rod setup at ice out can and is very effective, but your only talking about a week or so a best.
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I normally fish for lakers up around Ompah area, there are a few lakes up there that are year round. So you can get fishing right at ice out. Also depending on the weather from year to year the lakes that I fish in Quebec open just as the ice is going out, but it can be a crap shoot.
Anyway when I do get out early I like a nice light or med/light action spinning rod with not more than 8lb test, 6 being ideal, don't worry if the drag is set right you will not break off. I love Sutton west rivers in silver(nickel) with copper or brass. Gold would work to I"m sure but thats what I have luck with, also Williams wobblers same colour not too big. I use long lines 100 ft or more back of the boat is common, you want to put as much distance between the sound of your motor and you lure as possible.They will be in close to shore where the water is warming up first.Look for any sand bars or even beaches shallow water is good. Drop offs will have a few hanging around as well.I just keep moving in and out of deep and shallow water until I find action. I have never had any luck with rapala type lures during ice out but thats not saying much. 3 years ago my son nailed a 3 or 4lb on a worm which was kinda funny as everyone else was all scientific about fishing them and he just tosses out a worm with abit of weight and goes back to day dreaming.
Anyway look for sand or gravel not to deep you should do ok, at least you'll be out before most.
Anyway when I do get out early I like a nice light or med/light action spinning rod with not more than 8lb test, 6 being ideal, don't worry if the drag is set right you will not break off. I love Sutton west rivers in silver(nickel) with copper or brass. Gold would work to I"m sure but thats what I have luck with, also Williams wobblers same colour not too big. I use long lines 100 ft or more back of the boat is common, you want to put as much distance between the sound of your motor and you lure as possible.They will be in close to shore where the water is warming up first.Look for any sand bars or even beaches shallow water is good. Drop offs will have a few hanging around as well.I just keep moving in and out of deep and shallow water until I find action. I have never had any luck with rapala type lures during ice out but thats not saying much. 3 years ago my son nailed a 3 or 4lb on a worm which was kinda funny as everyone else was all scientific about fishing them and he just tosses out a worm with abit of weight and goes back to day dreaming.
Anyway look for sand or gravel not to deep you should do ok, at least you'll be out before most.
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hi Basstalker
I would say probably less then 20 FOW, as an example there is one lake that I that has a ledge running along it's western shore(very long). The ledge is anywhere between 3 to 12 feet below the surface and runs out about 10 to 75 feet from shore, then plunges to about 40 to 60 FOW. Kinda under water cliff(on a sunny day you can see it very clearly). I just troll in and out of that ledge, I don't think the spoons w/o weight are getting down much more then 5 or 6 feet(depends on boat speed). As things warm up I try and hug the ledge ,fishing down about 20 to 30 feet.
At another lake on the quebec side that I fish alot. There is a point in a bay that averages 70 to 90 FOW. This point has a sand/gravel bar running out from it about 20 to 30 feet wide and down anywhere from 2 to 20 feet and at least 40 FOW on either side of it. Trolling over that can be very productive, even after things start to warm up, if you hit it very early in the morning. Once things start to warm up I'm back to lead core or rigger
This is a ice out Splake from a couple of years ago
I would say probably less then 20 FOW, as an example there is one lake that I that has a ledge running along it's western shore(very long). The ledge is anywhere between 3 to 12 feet below the surface and runs out about 10 to 75 feet from shore, then plunges to about 40 to 60 FOW. Kinda under water cliff(on a sunny day you can see it very clearly). I just troll in and out of that ledge, I don't think the spoons w/o weight are getting down much more then 5 or 6 feet(depends on boat speed). As things warm up I try and hug the ledge ,fishing down about 20 to 30 feet.
At another lake on the quebec side that I fish alot. There is a point in a bay that averages 70 to 90 FOW. This point has a sand/gravel bar running out from it about 20 to 30 feet wide and down anywhere from 2 to 20 feet and at least 40 FOW on either side of it. Trolling over that can be very productive, even after things start to warm up, if you hit it very early in the morning. Once things start to warm up I'm back to lead core or rigger
This is a ice out Splake from a couple of years ago
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