MinnKota wiring?
- 1lastcast
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MinnKota wiring?
Id like to get started on the wireing of my trolling motor. Problem is, I dont have it yet. I cant seem to find any online manuals? It will be a MinnKota Terrova 80 24Volt system.
Batterys will be placed in the back section of the boat. 24ft of #6 wire is what im thinking I will need in terms of wire size and length. Is this as simple as running 2 wires from the trolling motor? Connecting 2 batterys in parallel of course.
Thanks
Batterys will be placed in the back section of the boat. 24ft of #6 wire is what im thinking I will need in terms of wire size and length. Is this as simple as running 2 wires from the trolling motor? Connecting 2 batterys in parallel of course.
Thanks
"My biggest worry is that my wife (when I'm dead) will sell my fishing gear for what I said I paid for it."
- Relic
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That's about it. Definately a good choice on the heavy gauge cable. I think it was a minimum of 10 gauge but the heavier the better.
Also need an inline circuit breaker right where you make the splice from motor to extension cable. If I had my boat here I would check what size the breaker is, but I dont Find out what the max draw is on that motor.
Also need an inline circuit breaker right where you make the splice from motor to extension cable. If I had my boat here I would check what size the breaker is, but I dont Find out what the max draw is on that motor.
- toobinator
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- bass ackwards
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You're almost there with advice so far, use a short wire to connect the +ve of one battery to the -ve of the other and use the 2 remaining terminals to run to the TM. Use the minimum cable required to do the job and I would not solder the connections - use crimped terminals, a local garage should help you out with a tool as a lot of force is required to crimp down on #4 gauge. Solder joints shouldn't be use where high current is around. I got all the bits I needed from auto parts extra, go big and you'll never have a wiring problem.
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ady wrote: Use the minimum cable required to do the job and I would not solder the connections - Solder joints shouldn't be use where high current is around.
Sorry Dude but your giving out terrible advice............
The heavier the cable you use the less resistance = the less heat build up
All connections should be soldered . A poor connection will result in heat build up and the weak connecton melt , could even cause fire
Put your hand on the head of the trolling motor after long use or cutting through weeds = Hot
- mikemicropterus
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big wire
I gotta agree with the big wire guys
and the soldering of the connections
and 35 amps isn't that much considering the size of the wire....
but it's a water environment and the wrong kind of wire can be just as bad...get marine grade wire and try not to let it lie in water for any length of time meaniing watch where you run it especially if it is under the deck or out of sight below the floor...normal wire will allow water intrusion after a period of time and marine wire is coated to resist corrosion longer...
big wire and really good connections will eliminate alot of problems...I can't tell you the number of trolling motor issues I see that end up being connnection or wiring problems not the trolling motor....
and the soldering of the connections
and 35 amps isn't that much considering the size of the wire....
but it's a water environment and the wrong kind of wire can be just as bad...get marine grade wire and try not to let it lie in water for any length of time meaniing watch where you run it especially if it is under the deck or out of sight below the floor...normal wire will allow water intrusion after a period of time and marine wire is coated to resist corrosion longer...
big wire and really good connections will eliminate alot of problems...I can't tell you the number of trolling motor issues I see that end up being connnection or wiring problems not the trolling motor....
- bass ackwards
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If you guys want to get fancy you can also use heat shrink tubing to cover the wire connector joining area after you use the OX-Gard.
Also make sure the battery interconnecting cable is of the same as other wire.
As far as soldering, you do not have to do it, but like other people say I see more problems relating to bad connections.
Soldering these large cables is somewhat difficult so if you are not comfortable with this, it is easier to use crimp on connectors with Ox-Gard.
Also make sure the battery interconnecting cable is of the same as other wire.
As far as soldering, you do not have to do it, but like other people say I see more problems relating to bad connections.
Soldering these large cables is somewhat difficult so if you are not comfortable with this, it is easier to use crimp on connectors with Ox-Gard.
Bass Addict wrote:ady wrote: Use the minimum cable required to do the job and I would not solder the connections - Solder joints shouldn't be use where high current is around.
Sorry Dude but your giving out terrible advice............
The heavier the cable you use the less resistance = the less heat build up
All connections should be soldered . A poor connection will result in heat build up and the weak connecton melt , could even cause fire
Put your hand on the head of the trolling motor after long use or cutting through weeds = Hot
Lots of opinions on this one............
BA you are so almost right.
Resistance in the connection will result in a local heat build up in the connection and there will be a fire risk.
Heavy duty cable is not for heat build up in the cable it is to reduce the voltage drop due to the cable resistance.
Therefore cable gauge is to performance what quality connection is to fire risk reduction.
Play around with V= I x R and I x V = W
Check the ohms per 1000ft values here http://www.interfacebus.com/Reference_C ... Sizes.html
I'm also surprised that nobody has recommended placing the batteries in the front of the boat, to reduce the cable length required therefore reducing the voltage drop.
Just another opinion.
99 Princecraft 176
98 115 Johnson Ficht
VHF Call terry f 316014005
NPAA 537
98 115 Johnson Ficht
VHF Call terry f 316014005
NPAA 537
Me ! give terrible advice??? Been around this game a long time. Take a look under the hood of your car and show me the soldered connections on your battery or starter - you won't find any. Soldering thin wire is easy, solderering thick is tricky because you have to get even heat on the cable and connector at the same time or "dry joints" happen. A bad soldered joint will creat a high resistance connection and drop voltage across it; this in turn creates heat and eventually a fire or melted solder.Bass Addict wrote:ady wrote: Use the minimum cable required to do the job and I would not solder the connections - Solder joints shouldn't be use where high current is around.
Sorry Dude but your giving out terrible advice............
The heavier the cable you use the less resistance = the less heat build up
All connections should be soldered . A poor connection will result in heat build up and the weak connecton melt , could even cause fire
Put your hand on the head of the trolling motor after long use or cutting through weeds = Hot
Terry alluded to the cable issue, forget the thin stuff, MinnKota tell you this on their site. I had to replace my OEM cableing in my Princecraft due to a burn't out Marinco socket, I threw away the #10 and put in #6 - problem gone.
You'll not have problems with crimped cables, but I am talking about the big stuff here, Car battery size all-copper connectors, not the type you get in plastic bags at CT. You'll also have to go to your local garage to get a tool to crimp the connectors as several tons of force is required, I doubt you'll have anything in your shed to do this, and don't compromise.
You do not want to lose any voltage in your cables, go-big. This stuff isn't cheap though, another reason to keep the cable length short.
- Relic
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Yep!!! Solder and heavy cable is a BAD idea.ady wrote: Take a look under the hood of your car and show me the soldered connections on your battery or starter - you won't find any. Soldering thin wire is easy, solderering thick is tricky because you have to get even heat on the cable and connector at the same time or "dry joints" happen. A bad soldered joint will creat a high resistance connection and drop voltage across it; this in turn creates heat and eventually a fire or melted solder.
- Bass Addict
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ady wrote: A bad soldered joint will creat a high resistance connection and drop voltage across it; this in turn creates heat and eventually a fire .
A poorly crimped connection will also cause resistance and a drop in voltage....
It will also cause arcing between the connection and the cable , causing even more of a poor contact....
This is true and hence my final statement, you cannot use normal tools for this, cut your cable to length, get the size of terminals you need to fit your outlet and take them to your local garage to get them crimped. I have checked my facts with a couple of electrical engineers (not electronics guys) and they concur, and btw, Relic is in the busines too and knows his stuff. Forget the solder.Bass Addict wrote:ady wrote: A bad soldered joint will creat a high resistance connection and drop voltage across it; this in turn creates heat and eventually a fire .
A poorly crimped connection will also cause resistance and a drop in voltage....
It will also cause arcing between the connection and the cable , causing even more of a poor contact....
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- bass ackwards
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