Fish-Hawk.Net

This one goes out to those of you who have used two different Flourocarbon lines, Seaguar Tatsu and Sunline Shooter.

Both seem to be great quality lines, both receive great reviews, and both are somewhat costly although Tatsu looks to price out a few dollars more then the Sunline brand although the Shooter comes on a smaller 165 yard spool vs. 200 for the Tatsu so the price difference is borderline negligible, it seems.

At the 20 lb. mark, both measure in at .37 mm.

Can anyone tell me their experiences with either of these lines at the 20 lb. diameter if possible? At this point I'm likely to end up buying both to try but I would really like to hear if anyone here has stories between the two lines to help me narrow my decision down.

For what it's worth I am going to be using the line on a 7 ft. Crucial with a Chronarch 6:4:1 and will be throwing Rodents, Jig n Pigs, Structure Bugs and Craws on it... maybe even the odd Zoom Ol' Monster here and there, mostly with 3/8 to 1/2 oz. tungsten bullet weights on the plastics.

Cheers!


~OAO~

I'm giving you a free bump for a few reasons.

1. I hate flourocarbon. It likes me even less.
2. I think I hate flourocarbon because I have never used a quality line but man that stuff is expensive.
3. Getting other people's persoective really how and I am as interested as you are.

I know Startzar and THEMAVERICK use enough of the stuff. I just do t know what brand. After getting frustrated with Flouro last year, I switched the one reel I had it on to copoly (mono/flouro blend) and it was much more manageable. I am going to give it another shot this year and see what happens...

I use to hate Floro but then I tried Invisx. it has the same memory as mono

I don't trust flouro.
Using the several manufacturer's recommended knots and methods, I consistently break at the knots well below the stated line strength.
I wish it wasn't so.

Daboss wrote:I don't trust flouro.
Using the several manufacturer's recommended knots and methods, I consistently break at the knots well below the stated line strength.
I wish it wasn't so.

I only use Fluorocarbon line for cranking and I don't buy the extremely expensive stuff.
PLine (15) is good enough for me. As for not trusting the knot ... never broke off since I started tying with the following.


Shaw Grigsby demonstrates the BEST knot for fluorocarbon line.

The Tatsu and Shooter are both very stiff fluorocarbons, and although I have not fished with either, I have played with both in the store. Sunline Sniper constitutes probably 90% of my fluorocarbon sales in the store and is what I use. It is a softer line and castability is much better than the stiffer options. The customers that do buy the shooter usually are using it exclusively for flipping. I haven't sold enough of the Tatsu to get any feedback on it. If you want to try the Tatsu, I'll give you a smoking price on it , the others are our regular low low prices.

Ed

In regards to knots, always remember that the knot you tie is the weakest point in your line, a good knot will retain more then 90% of the strength, while an improper knot will have less than one half of the line strength.

Typically, knots always have less strength than the lines test strength, don't settle on any knot because it's familiar, heat and strain come to mind if using Fluorocarbon.

Here's a good tip...
Protect knots from weakening due to strain and abrasion. Once a bass is removed from the water, the buoyant force of the water no longer counteracts the bass’s weight (or any other fish). So lift fish from the water with a net instead of hoisting them out of the water with your line to avoid placing unnecessary strain on your knots

I also use the Shaw Grigsby knot, it has yet to break under knot strain.

As for the OP's question, there's no good answer, when it comes to line preference i find that anglers will have confidence in what they think will work best for their own specific needs. As opinions will vary, I think the best solution is by trial and error.

I've used InvizX, AbrazX, 100% Fluoro Pline and currently using FC Sniper which is my preferred line out of the mentioned brands.
When Tatsu hit the market, it was priced ridiculously high, therefore I swayed to more reasonably priced line and haven't looked back. Maybe I'll try it one day...

To the Fluoro haters using fluorocarbon is no different then using braid for the first time, there's an adjusment period.

Here are a couple of interesting charts,
*note on the first chart that cost per yard is subjective.









This line recently came out at the Osaka 2015 fishing show, in hopes it comes available to the American\Canadian market.

When Ed says "Smoking price", believe me, the price will be ridiculously good.
Every one I know that uses Fluorocarbon, speak highly of the Shooter line.

Just to add.... I used straight fluoro on all my UL gear just to save on time mostly and never had an issue. I prefer Seagaur invisix or abrasix.... I use Seagaur fluro leader when fishing and pike are likley, otherwise use fluro backed (2 rod lengths) backed by braid. Never had an issue...

I have had braid abrasion cuts when fishing for cats was thing of adding a fluro or mono leader to see if that helps

I used the the cabellas just for one day, the end of the day I unspooled the stuff and threw it away... Too stiff.

The only other issue I had with fluro on small reels was multiple cool release when using very small reels and very light jigs (think 1/32 oz). The line was too stiff I went to trilean XL.

Thanks to everyone for all the great responses, I seriously mean that, really great.

Ed, I am coming to see you soon for that Chronarch Ci4+ so I guess we'll have to throw some Shooter and Tatsu into the cart while i'm there. Otherwise I'm telling myself in advance not to spend 500+ at your store when i visit. Hopefully I can keep that promise to myself

Cheers everyone...

~OAO~

OutdoorActionOntario wrote:Thanks to everyone for all the great responses, I seriously mean that, really great.

Ed, I am coming to see you soon for that Chronarch Ci4+ so I guess we'll have to throw some Shooter and Tatsu into the cart while i'm there. Otherwise I'm telling myself in advance not to spend 500+ at your store when i visit. Hopefully I can keep that promise to myself

Cheers everyone...

~OAO~

lol!!!

Good luck staying under $500 there with a CI4+ and two spools already eating away close to $400. If you've never been there, you are going to feel like you have died and gone to heaven!!!

Adam

I use Trilene 100% Flurocarbon.

When throwing crankbaits I'll use 10# line, I've never had issues with it and I'll use the same line and pound test for my dropshot leaders.
It is IMO that this type of line isn't meant for spinning reels.. It just doesn't work... I may try again and use a different technique to spool it on.. we'll see...

I like to flip with 17# or 20# line but I mostly use braid.

Oh and I use KVD's Fluro spray, honestly it works, the line just comes off the spool easier.
Once you try it you'll see what I mean, I like to spray my spools a day before a tournament. Gives it time to soak in and disperse.
If you spray it and immediately use it you'll wear it out faster..

Good luck.

Now that the OP’s question has been answered, it’s fair enough that we deviate.
For those of you with dedicated jerkbait combos, would you rather use braid/fluoro leader or straight Fluoro?

Ever since the last Bass Talk (last year), I’ve been hesitant in regards to what line to use after hearing Charles mentioning he used braid/fluoro leader for a better hook up ratio, no stretch, and a better action when jerking.

When it comes to treble lures and braid, I’ve been reluctant in using braid in fear of ripping them out the smallies mouth, I guess that’s where a properly set drag will make a difference?

Any of you using braid for jerkbaits? Experiences, thoughts.

Thanks!

Mav, I am not sure drag plays into it as much; With braid the key is to loose the eye crossing hook set.... I find a firm 2 or 3 foot sweep (side or vertical) is usually enough depending on how much slack is the line for your presentation. When ripping cranks on braid for example I find you don't need that much of a hookset as the weight of the fish and the quick retrieve does most of the job. I just continue to crank and lift the rod a foot when I feel the weight.

I use starlight braid because my leader material would not fit through the micro guides. I will try a smaller leader this year.

My jerkbait rod also doubles as a partial topwater (I throw pencil 110's on it) so going full flourocarbon would not work to well for me.

Even with the full braid, I have never ripped a lure out of a fishes mouth. Like Zippy stated, you don't need to set the hook too hard but if you are using the right rod, you don't need to worry about that.