flipping questions

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Chevy Champagne
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flipping questions

Post by Chevy Champagne »

hey guys i got myself a new rod for flipping/pitching now i just have to figure out what kind of line and reel i should get for it
cant wait till bass opens
only a couple more months 8)
thanks in advanced
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uglyfish
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Post by uglyfish »

a good baitcasting reel. as for brand, dont really matter... everyone is just gonna tell u to get the brand they use, cause its "the best" u can get any reel u want and like.

but at least a 6.3:1 gear ratio, u can go higher if u want, its ur choice. drag power isnt that important because it should be locked down tight so u can get a good hook set and get them outta the thick stuff they're hiding in.

quantum, shimano, abugarcua, ardent... sont matter, pick ur price and take ur pic.

quantum has the accurist for about 100 bucks with the flippin switch, designed for flippin and pitch, great reel. u can go up in price from there.

shimano has the core and castiac with insta-guage which is their version of a flippin switch, both reels are fairly costly. the curado is good, but about 230 bucks, the citica is great and only about 150.

so again, set ur price, and make a decision based on what u wanna spend and what looks and feels good to u.

as for line, u can use 25lb mono or flouro. i personally use spiderwire braid, 65lb test.

u can use as high as 80lb but dont go less then 50lb.

hope this helps, have fun!
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Chevy Champagne
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Post by Chevy Champagne »

so braid isnt the way to go?
thanks 8)
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Hookup
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Post by Hookup »

I'm not a flip'n and pitching expert, but I believe by way of reel i think that any reel that can stand up to the hook-sets will do just fine as that would be the main/only real performance that the reel has to handle.

As far as line goes, I'm a braid guy. I believe that often times flip'n & pitching triggers reaction strikes on the initial fall... a nice semi-soft landing gets the fishes attention, then the fall gets the strike.. so going to flurocarbon is not necessary... and I stick with braid...

I haven't gone back to flurocarbon's since their initial launch and I've been told how much they have improved in terms of abrasion resistance so I can see how this would also be a great way to go because of the combined strength and the low-vis would be an advantage.
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Joey Rat
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Flipping

Post by Joey Rat »

For what it's worth, I bought a new reel for flipping at Paddletales and Ed spooled it with 70lb Samurai braid.

Don't forget to back it with a bunch of mono and given that you are flipping you really don't a 100 yds of braid.
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Post by Fishing 24/7 »

clear water = fluoro or mono. OR braid with a fluro leader.

dirty water = braid straight to the lure.


i use fluoro 20 lbs .

it all depends what type of structure your flippin/pitch

rocks= check your knot often.

logs , weeds , mats, youl have no probleme.

mono streches more than fluoro. so if you want a good feel go with fluoro.

dont be afraid to set the hook HARD.

if you are going to go with fluoro only.

only spool HALF of your line onto your spool.

yoou wont need more and you will have less birdsnest.

have fun dude!
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Post by Pike Puncher »

What kind of rod did you buy? I like to keep the weight of my combo as low as possible for this technique. The new Shimano Citica is a very lighweight reel for that price point. I never got into using flippin switches much.

Regarding line, its really a personal thing. I keep two MH pitching set-ups on deck with 17lb-20lb fluoro (texas rigs, jigs) and one with 15lb fluoro (senkos & other weightless baits). I use Trilene 100% with a palomar knot and haven't had any issues.

For my H flippin set-up I use mostly Stren Sonic Braid. For this rig a snell knot is the way to go, and I like tying it with braid better. I have used 25lb Trilene 100% as well without any break offs (again using a palomar knot).

All in all, heavy braid requires a little less maintenance (don't have to respool every few trips) and gives you more versatility in tying knots. You can blacken the last several feet with a heavy marker to make it less visible.

Billy
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uglyfish
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Post by uglyfish »

walleye man wrote:so braid isnt the way to go?
thanks 8)
lol, no. i meant u can use flouro or mono, just use 25lb test. myself and most others prefer braid because it has no stretch and its much stronger.

i wouldnt worry about flouro leaders. straight braid all the time. its usually a reaction bite so the braid wont matter, and ur typically tossing it to heavy cover so its not gonna matter much. straight braid is the way to go.
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boogie
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line

Post by boogie »

Docks/light vegetation = 15 lbs fluoro

Heavy cover = 65 braid

You don't need the big braid if your are kinda finesse pitching/flipping in clear water. However for the big weed beds/mats, go big or go home.
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Yannick Loranger
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Post by Yannick Loranger »

Let me know when you can give me some flipping answers! I couldn't keep the pike away from my jigs last year, never landed one, but got sheered 4 times. Weird feeling, 1 tick, set the hook, no resistance at all, lure gone.
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http://www.OttawaRiverFishing.ca
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Post by DropShotr »

I use 50lb Power Pro.

I add a mono leader (Trilene Big Game) of 12, 15 or 25lb as conditions require. The odd time I'll go straight braid. Most days I use a mono leader.

No wrong answers here.

It's good to get other ideas, but in the end it's your water & your style of fishing.

fisherguy33 wrote:Let me know when you can give me some flipping answers! I couldn't keep the pike away from my jigs last year, never landed one, but got sheered 4 times. Weird feeling, 1 tick, set the hook, no resistance at all, lure gone.
I know wire leaders seem to be looked down on in here.

I use Sevenstrand uncoated wire leader. My brown 18lb wire has a diameter of 12thou. I know a pike will not bite through it. Period.

What seems to be in voge these days is overpriced whipper snipper cord diameter Fluorcarbon leaders that the pike shouldn't be able to bite through.

To each their own,
DS
Excessive compulsive dropshot fisherman
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Seaweed
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flippin line

Post by Seaweed »

The sole comment I will make on this is that you need a nice heavy line over tweny pound test in a fairly stiff mono/floro/braid... the reason for this is that during your initial learning curve of flipping and pitching you will find that the heavier line doesn't backlash as much and if it does it is a lot easier to sort out your birdnest of line and then get back to fishing.

Practise with your rod and reel trying to pitch a heavy jig into garbage pails and work down to smaller and smaller targets... eventually you should be able to almost on a regular basis pitch to an empty corn can at about twenty feet. You will be surprised how good you get the more you practise.

Try to do this in an elevated postion to mimic you on the bow of a boat.
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Post by steve-hamilton »

i think i'm gonna do away with my flouro leads attached to my braid, and am going to go 100% braid without a leader...

mono and straight flouro is for the Great Lakes.
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Post by curls »

My dedicated flipping rid/reel will have 70# Daiwa Samurai braid with no leader, UNLESS I am flipping in ultra-clear water and in light to moderate cover. In that case I will tie on a short (1-3') 25# or 20# fluoro leader (Seaguar leader material). In moderate to heavy cover, or stained water in any condition, it's straight 70# samurai braid.

My pitching / light-cover flipping rig will have 30# braid and 20# fluoro leader (4-6'), unless the water is rediculously stained in which case I won't bother with the leader.
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